Brief Accounts: Herpetology and Birding Expedition (December 2002-January 2003)

The joint herpetology and birding expedition over the weeks of Christmas 2002 and New Years 2003 was populated by a bold and adventurous breed of traveler. These were the brave souls who faced down the twin monsters of the season's commercialization and braved the perils of entering airports at the busiest season of the year. This group was more than ready to face anything that the Amazon had to offer!

Apart from one missing suitcase (that showed up the following day), everyone made the trip uneventfully, though many left home just in time to miss the first big snowstorm of the winter season. Some of the group didn't even wait to get out into the rainforest before starting to look for herps - a nighttime drive down the partially completed road to Nauta turned up 6 snakes - three of which had unfortunately already been run over. The rest were rescued and released a safe distance off the road. Since everyone arrived in Iquitos on Friday, the next afternoon (Saturday), we loaded up our riverboat, the Tucunare (right) and headed downriver, rather than waiting for Sunday AM to depart.

The first stop was an overland paved trail (traveled by 3-wheel taxis) between the Amazon and Napo Rivers. This was a productive herp stop, producing a fossorial (burrowing) banded amphisbanian or worm-lizard (Amphisbaena fuliginosa). As luck would have it, however, this uncommonly encountered specimen had already been nearly bisected by the wheels of one of the 'motokars'. The curse of flattened snake-shaped creatures didn't last long, fortunately, as we also found a large specimen of a South American water snake (Helicops angulatus) and also a synbranchid eel (Synbranchus sp.) in one of the trailside ditches. Frogs abounded, with several species of Hyla, Eleutherodactylus, Bufo, Scinax and Sphaenorhynchus turning up in the puddles and vegetation along the trail. Above left is Sphaenorhynchus lacteus, also known as the greater hatched-faced tree frog, names longer than the creature itself!.

The following day we completed travel down the Amazon River and headed up the Apayacu River to the Sabalillo Forest Reserve. Even though this site has some spectacular primary rainforest, the trip down the Amazon and up its tributary had the birders enraptured - the open river edges are great locations for getting excellent views of many species, including terns, raptors, various flycatchers, several species of vulture, kingfishers, herons, oropendolas and caciques, toucans and aracaris (including the lettered aracari at right - the "letters" are the bill markings), flycatchers, tanagers, parrots and much more. The Apayacu River did not fail us either, and we all had good looks at spectacular blue-and-yellow and scarlet macaws one or more times during our boat travel on the river.

Repeat clients who had visited Sabalillo previously were pleasantly surprised to see the finished facilities there, and also appreciated the expanded trail system. Arriving in the early afternoon, everyone was soon oriented to the trails, and off in search of birds, herps, plants, sounds to record, insects to photograph, and spectacular forest to explore. The Sabalillo Forest Reserve is the least known of the three Project Amazonas field stations that we utilize, and there seems to be fewer herps in general than at the other two sites. Nevertheless, Sabalillo does have its regular specialties, such as the giant monkey frog (Phyllomedusa bicolor - left), and there are always "surprises" on every visit. The first snake and "herp find" at Sabalillo was a gorgeous but venemous orange-ringed coral snake (Micrurus hemprichii ortonii). This escape artist managed to flatten its body to an alarming extent and slipped right through the brand new top-of-the-line snake tongs wielded by two of our group with extensive snake-handling experience. There was a considerable stream of invective against the manufacturer of the tongs, and some immediate tong-modification activities once everyone was back at the boat. The escape of the coral snake had a golden lining, however. While revisiting the site where the coral snake escaped (in the absolutely vain hope of finding it again), a strange knocking sound was heard well off the trail. A half-hour of investigation (at night on a steep hillside) pinpointed the tree from which the hollow knocking sound seemed to be coming. A daytime visit showed that the tree did have a hole in it about 15 above ground level, and Segundo, our seasoned boat captain, chainsaw operator, source of laughter, and expert tree climber was drafted to investigate. The result was a very attractive bamboo treefrog (Nyctimantis rugiceps - at right). This species was first reported in Peru in the late 1990's, and is now known from several locations north in Peru north of the Amazon. It was our first encounter with the species, however, which made it without a doubt the best amphibian find of the trip.

Departing the Sabalillo Forest Reserve, we headed back down the Rio Apayacu, across the Amazon, and through a narrow bird-rich channel to the Rio Orosa and the Madre Selva Biological Station, and a few days later, further upriver to the Paucarillo Forest Reserve. Again, past visitors were astounded at the facilities improvements, made to accommodate a university course earlier in the year. Once at Madre Selva, we were within the 15-mile diameter circle designated by the National Audubon Society for the Rio Orosa Christmas Bird Count (CBC), which we have now conducted for 6 consecutive years. For the CBC, all bird species recorded for the designated count week are recorded, while on count day (the middle of count week), numbers of individuals of each species are also recorded. This years count was remarkably successful, with 929 individual birds of 161 species recorded on count day, and 248 species recorded for count week. Some of the bird highlights included excellent looks at the pavonine quetzal, an Amazonian umbrellabird, many cotingas and fruit-crows (spangled, plum-throated, purple-throated), white-crowned spadebill (a first sighting for the area), many other flycatchers, and a fine assortment of antbirds, tanagers, toucans, woodpeckers, raptors (like the juvenile double-toothed kite at right), finches, herons and more. Some birds were located primarily by their calls, including various tinamous with their beautiful haunting whistles, the aptly named screaming piha, and Lawrence's Thrush, an unassuming robin-sized bird with an incredible repertoire of calls mimicking dozens of other bird species. The bird "find" of the trip was as unexpected as the bamboo treefrog. While traveling by skiff at night on the river and looking for frogs, tree boas, potoos, owls and nightjars, we were treated to the sight and sounds of the improbable oilbird - a large, nocturnal, hook-billed, fruit-eating, cave-nesting, echo-locating bird that has never been reported from the area previously, and would seem to be at least 1000 km away from the nearest possible nesting cave. Interestingly enough, the very first Brazilian record of this species was recently reported from near the Brazil-Peru frontier not too far from the Rio Orosa (that record will be published soon, so sorry, I can't give any additional details at the current time!).

Madre Selva wasn't just a haven for birds. The herpers and insect people also had a wonderful time, and many many rolls of film were shot. Night skiff trips to a nearby floodplain lake produced a number of hylid frog species, and the combined efforts of everyone, but especially the keen eyes of the crew and guides, helped to find a number of snake, lizard, amphibians and numerous fascinating insects and other arthropod species in the forested areas of Madre Selva. Even flatworms made the "WOW" list (right). Mammals too, helped round out the sightings. During our boat travels, as well as while kayaking on the Rio Orosa, expedition members were treated to the presence of Amazon pink dolphins as well as the smaller gray river dolphins. At Sabalillo and at Paucarillo, we had excellent looks at monk saki monkeys - a large monkey that looks like its tailor had a fetish for black shag rugs. Almost daily, we were awakened by the rousing and boisterous dawn chorus of dusky titi monkeys, and several times and places we had opportunity to observe the smaller saddle-back marmosets, pygmy marmosets, and squirrel monkeys. At Paucarillo, a real treat while relaxing on the upper deck of the Tucunare riverboat was the sight of a giant river otter swimming across the river. In most of the Amazon, these magnificent otters have been hunted to extinction for their skins, so we were fortunate to see one and to know that they are still present in the area. My herp favorite at Paucarillo was a juvenile rainbow boa (above right). In the right light, these snakes are as beautiful as any brightly colored tropical bird.

Our expedition was greatly enhanced by interacting with the local people - trading sessions at nearby Yagua Indian communities gave everyone the opportunity to trade items of use for the local people for handicrafts made from rainforest fibers and seeds, and also to visit villages and schools and learn more about life in remote parts of the Amazon. On occasion, local people also brought us snakes, frogs and lizards that they had encountered, and such events are always a good opportunity to find out more about local knowledge relative to the wildlife of the area, and to encourage them to conserve these creatures. School supplies brought by various expedition participants were donated to the local school to provide badly-needed materials for teaching children such as this girl with her pet marmoset.

No trip can be complete without doing something bold, adventurous and (in some people's opinion) stupid. This time, the hike to Lunes Cocha (Moon Lake) near the Madre Selva Biological Station fit the bill. Water levels in the area were higher than normal, but several of us decided that we wanted to hike through the swamp forest to Lunes Cocha anyway, to try and see the worlds only leaf-eating, flying, claw-winged and diving (the nestlings, at least) bird - the hoatzin. Setting off about 9 AM, we hiked along the higher first part of the trail without incident, apart from filling our boots with water a few times when stepping into flooded holes in the path. The first creek crossing (chest deep - as long as you managed to stay on the submerged log bridge) should have given an indication of what was to come, but there was no turning back now. Leaving anything that we didn't want to get wet at the first creek, we forged onward. Great views of collared trogons and and the shocking masked crimson tanagers lured us deeper into the swamp.

The swamp forest leading to Lunes Cocha is a drunken no-mans-land - the soil is boggy and shakes when walked upon. Trees have no firm rooting and tip over every which way. Islands created by the 1000's of aerial roots of Coussapoa trees dot the landscape, providing handy ladders to climb up into the canopy (climbing up roots to get to the canopy??!). Oh yeah, and did I mention that most of the trail was waist to chest deep in water filled with the fallen fronds and trunks of extremely spiny, extremely common palms? In a few places the trail disappeared due to recent treefalls (a great opportunity for a close look at all those canopy orchids and other epiphytes) or due to excessive flooding, but there was no turning back - we had set out for Lunes Cocha, and we would get there, or drown trying! Or, perhaps, get bitten trying...on one of the few patches of dry land I unknowingly stepped directly over a juvenile fer-de-lance (Bothrops atrox - a venemous pit-viper) that was coiled, but nearly invisible, in the center of the path. While it probably wouldn't have been able to bite through my rubber boots, stepping on it couldn't possibly have been good for the state of my heart and mental well being! The only possible explanation for our determination was basic Guy Rule #2 - never turn back! Guy Rule #1 (never admit you've made a mistake) may have also played a wee role...

Eventually we did make it to Lunes Cocha, but couldn't really get a good look at the lake as the land was flooded well back into the forest surrounding the lake. No hoatzins were to be found, and since Lunes Cocha is noted for hosting a population of large black caimans, no-one volunteered to wade neck deep out to where unobstructed views might be obtained. The caiman skull below came from the same area. The trip back was punctuated by quite a few palm thorns in knees, legs, and boots, and by not a few uncensored exclamations that might not make it onto daytime TV. It wasn't until 2 PM that we staggered back into camp, exhausted, filthy, water-wrinkled, and picking thorns out of our skins. The cook had thoughtfully kept our food warm in the kitchen, and we would have put starving wild pigs to shame. Everyone agreed - it was the best hike of the trip!

Great company, lots of laughs, lots of herps, lots of birds, lots of things to do, lots of rainforest, lots of jungle sounds, and not a single complete rendition of I'm dreaming of a white Christmas. What more could you possibly ask for (other than the ever-elusive emerald tree boa)? Many thanks to everyone who made it a great trip, and we hope to see you again next December (if not earlier!).

NOTE: To download listings of the herps observed on the trip as well as the master herp list for the Project Amazonas field sites, please visit the Document Center. Also available are the cumulative results for the Rio Orosa Christmas Bird Counts, and an annotated list of the bird species that have been recorded in the region.

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